Before going to bed last night, I talked with an American from the East coast who actually went to grad school at A&M. This was his second time in Morocco and he gave me some advice which I pretended to consider. After a while, he went off to explore the Medina and buy a custom-made door, as he was building a house back home. I thought this was awesome. The doors here are all so interesting and often medieval looking. I like the idea of building a house with different elements of your travels and life experiences ingrained into it. He went off and I went to bed to study and sleep.
Sleep? Not really. That was some night. I went to bed around 10 but didn’t sleep for hours. Why, you ask? I’ll tell you, you curious little thing. There are 5 beautiful windows in my room and from one of them came a constant clatter all night. It sounded as if someone were sitting outside the window, violently trying to break in. It was LOUD. The fact that I was on the top floor and no one could possibly get up there didn’t comfort me. Instead, it made me even more scared because I imagined that the guy trying to break into my room could also fly. I have no idea what it was, but it was very loud and persistent. I stuck some headphones into my ears and listened to Mogwai (good sleep music) as loud as I could without hurting my ears, but the tap tap tapping from the window still drowned out the music. It only got louder as the night went on until sunrise. Whadda HELL is dees?
I dragged myself out of bed in the morning. I just haven’t been motivated to do much and, while I’m enjoying observing the culture, I don’t think I’m taking full advantage of my short time here. I got dressed and headed out of the Medina without getting lost. OK, I used the compass on my phone, but I was pretty damn proud of myself. I went to find a taxi to the train station when I heard, “Bonjour, mon ami! Want to go to the airport?” “Oh great,” I thought. Another person trying to swindle me. I gave in and said I was looking for the train station. I thought the man would try to convince me to go with him for a high price, but he just hailed a taxi for me, told the driver to put the meter on, and assured me it shouldn’t cost more than a euro from here. He wished me bon voyage and drove off in a minivan, never to be seen again. Sometimes people do not want to swindle you, but that’s just what I expect when a stranger approaches a tourist to offer help, sadly. Sometimes – surprisingly often – people here just want to help. I forgot to mention that the guy who showed me the dirty restaurant and led me to the main gate yesterday did not ask for money. I offered him 10 dirham and he didn’t refuse, but neither did he ask for it.
People seem very happy to help here, and happy to do business. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve been suspicious only to find the person just wanted to talk to me or offer help. And always with a wide smile. Several times I’ve run into someone a second time after turning their business down initially, and they seemed genuinely happy to see me again. It’s strange, but nice.
So, I hopped into the petit taxi and headed to the train station. Less than a euro, as promised. I bought the next ticket to Marrakech, an 8 hour ride, and am on the way now. I hate to waste my day on the train, but there are some benefits. For one, I can see the countryside. Also, the next train I take will now be a night train, so I can save money on a hotel. Finally, trains are supposed to be great ways to meet people because everyone’s so open. Actually, nobody has come into my cabin yet. Where are all the people?
I’m going to Marrakech, again with no plans whatsoever. I don’t think finding a fairly cheap place to stay should be a problem, though. Marrakech sounds like a huge tourist trap to me, but these places attract tourists for a reason. Maybe I’ll meet some other travelers there, too.
This train is crazy. While the views are beautiful, calming, and surprisingly green, I have to complain that we’re not going anywhere. I feel as if we’ve spent more time at a standstill than moving. Waiting for a snack cart to come by. I’ve been here 3 days and only eaten 2 things so far. That reminds me – don’t get a Moroccan salad. There’s no lettuce and it’s almost entirely cucumbers. I hate cucumbers. Bleh. BLEH!
3:30 PM – I’ve been doing a lot of sitting and nothing on this trip. That day in the airport seemed like an eternity, and now I’m in my 6th hour of a train ride from Fez. The trains are comfortable and I can’t complain, but I’m unfortunately in a cabin full of businessmen who haven’t been very talkative aside from the introductory “Salam,” which is customary upon entering the room. When I get to Marrakech I’ll look for a hotel and, depending on whether or not it’s dark, either sit in my bed or in a cafe. Oh, do I love that tea. I even take it without sugar, which is crazy for me. I take everything with sugar, but this is too good to make any changes. The tea was worth the price of my plane tickets alone. As far as food goes, though, I haven’t been as impressed. I have been eating on the cheap, though. I can’t bring myself to spend more on a meal than I did on plane tickets, even if they were incredibly cheap. When I went to Dublin recently I flew for 1 euro and, while waiting in the airport, bought a brownie for 3 euros. It wasn’t even that good. I’m the kind of guy who complains that his brownie was more expensive than his flight, rather than appreciating the fact that his flight was cheaper than a brownie.
6:30 PM – Still on the train after 9.5 hours. What the H-E-double-hockey-sticks is going on? It’s taking a lot longer than I’d expected. Hope I didn’t miss my stop! Oh well, whatever. The scenery is gorgeous here. I’d love to take a road trip or a bike trip across the countryside here to get a more intimate look. Not so much for the scenery as what you see in the scenery. A bearded shepherd in his worn robe, clutching a cane in the middle of green rolling hills surrounded by sheep, the sun setting behind a mountainous horizon in the background. This would make a great photo if I weren’t zooming by in a train. I wonder if I could rent a camel and trek across the countryside for a week.
9:00 PM – Holy crap, I’m finally here. After sitting next to the same guy for almost all of the 10 hour train ride, he finally decides to strike up a conversation as we’re getting off. He was delightful. It was dark when I arrived so I went straight to look for a hotel. I decided I could spend a little extra today since it was raining and I wanted to get inside, then I could find a cheaper place tomorrow. Besides, I feel like treating myself and don’t want to be in depressing surroundings. After visiting several hotels, I went to the cheapest one which was still fairly expensive for Moroccan standards and plopped myself in a bed. This place is like a regular hotel where you can’t negotiate prices. I’m very comfortable here, but still missing all my old comforts at the moment. This includes eating terrible food. I went to a KFC in hopes of buying biscuits, but they only had fries. I know what you’re thinking. Staying in a nice hotel and eating fast food? Way to experience the culture. To that, I say shutup. It’s just for tonight. And besides, the KFC had a sign that all meat was slaughtered according to Sharia law. Also, they were playing Amr Diab on the speakers.
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